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Should you visit the charming island of this peaceful retreat in the West Sweden coastal region during the turn of the 20th century, it's likely you came for a treatment for respiratory illness. Historically, the isle drew city dwellers in search of fresh air, saltwater dips, and calm. Thanks to the legacy of a well-known local doctor, multiple sanatoriums gained such a stellar reputation that the island was dubbed a health retreat. Though those peak years are long gone, a recently opened relaxation-oriented hotel strives to rekindle that restorative atmosphere.

An Island of Peace and Fresh Breezes

Those same qualities that originally drew health seekers to this locale persist still. Nestled and protected from harsh winds, the south-facing beaches basks in sunlight from first light to evening. Absolutely no pollution here. “This island is such a serene place – you can genuinely relax and reset,” remarked the hotel manager in a our visit. The moment you board the ferry, your pulse rate drops and you commence taking in the clean air.”

A Journey of Unhurried Discovery

Embracing the spirit of taking it easy, we came by train starting in the UK using Interrail passes, breaking overnight in Hamburg. Getting to Gothenburg in the late afternoon, we explored the cobbled streets before taking a streetcar to Saltholmen harbour and a quick boat. In just an hour, we went from city center to island hotel.

Situated on the coast with panoramic views of neighbouring Donsö island, the 40-room hotel is a elegant building designed in soothing Scandinavian aesthetics, complete with a bright restaurant, spa zone, and outdoor pool. Our suite – among the ocean-facing options – was generous, uncluttered, and featured a terrace.

Green Design and Regional Sourcing

This property is designed with eco-friendliness in mind – using renewable heating and water-based underfloor heating. Additionally pursuing Green Key status. Everything is acquired from regional suppliers, from the employees and produce to the ocean algae and salt used in the relaxation offerings.

Havskuren is split into dual sections. The Salt Source features soaking tubs, beauty services, and a relaxation room. The other section includes a dry heat room, steam bath, and chilling tank. You’ll find a small gym. Bodywork are planned for the coming months.

Culinary offerings highlight Nordic-inspired dishes such as scallops, hake, and wholesome vegan options.

Exploring the Tranquil Island

Pedaling, hiking, ocean dips, and culinary enjoyment are key parts of the guest experience. We were offered shiny hire cycles to traverse the small island, which is practically vehicle-restricted. Throughout three days, the sole vehicles we saw on the narrow roads were cycles, golf carts, and trike scooters that looked like motorized wheelbarrows.

On a sunny day, after stocking up at the island Co-op, we rode to a nearby outcrop connected by a walkway for a alfresco dining experience. Afterward, we still had space for Swedish coffee break – enjoying coffees with a baked treat and a hearty Swedish confection at a cozy spot that operated as a herring merchant.

Woodland Hikes and Coastal Dining

Strolls on the forested south end of the island included a memorable twilight hike along a pathway leading to a bronze age cairn at Stora Rös, which offers a panoramic vista across the marine landscape. On our way back in the night, we walked among the path with scores of tiny frogs, many no exceeding a fingernail. The amphibians likely became meals for the long-legged hunters we spotted during daylight.

Returning to the hotel, we enjoyed dinner in the elegant restaurant with views of the water. Dinner offerings features Scandinavian-style seafood dishes such as cured halibut, plaice, and nutritious vegan options using fresh vegetables. We indulged in starters of beetroot and oyster mushrooms, followed by roasted vegetables over a smooth potato base – each was exquisite.

Donning wetsuits and waded into the clear, comfortable seawater, observing the expert carefully collect sea plants.

Wellness Rituals

One evening, we visited the spa. We were given a set of pleasant-smelling lotions prepared in-house, and we luxuriated in the hydrotherapy, dry heat, and cold pool. Later, we rested in the outdoor pool with views of the ocean and the sparkling lights of Donsö.

Neighbouring Visit and Local Eateries

A bridge has joined Styrsö with neighbouring Donsö for almost 50 years, so we biked across to enjoy an al fresco lunch at a harbourside café operated by island-born sisters. Their menu include produce grown by friends, tasty bread and cakes baked by family, and regular music. Later, we came back to the harbour for a superb dinner featuring root vegetables, pumpkin, and a creamy blend at a repurposed fishing depot that now operates as a dining spot.

Marine Foraging and Outdoor Cooking

On day three was focused on a marine foraging tour experience with a local naturalist who transitioned from a potter. We began with a scenic bike ride of the northern part of the island, home to many of the local population. Our guide took us unhurriedly up and down gentle hills dotted with maintained cottages, each unique.

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